Friends for Life – Sahagún es la Ver**!

Arriving late in this town I meet Luis, selling the best empanadas I ever ate. His sister Olga, girlfriend Cinthya and friend Carlos hang out infront of his house. Extremely interested they beginn to ask me thousands of questions about Germany, my life and my travel. They tell me that rarely any foreigners arrive in…

From the Sea into the Mountains – Hitchhiking in Colombia

Hurricane season’s about to start and my Caribbean Life is over – no more “Boathiking”. Most of the sailboats are brought to so called safe “Hurricane Holes” in Guatemala, Panama or Colombia for the months July – October. So far I hitchhiked from my hometown in Northern Germany to Cartagena in Colombia. 8 months of…

Cartagena de Indias and the lawless Squat of “El Principe”

The old town inside the pirate defending walls of Cartagena is beautifull. Many buildings have been restored with Unesco money in the city centre. Close to the harbour lies Getsemani. A quarter which bears shabby houses to the sides of narrow cobblestone streets which add a special kind of charme. The plazas are full of…

Über Leben im Gesetzesnebel – Drogentransport und Korruption

Eine zischende Welle spült mein Schlauchboot an den weißen Sandstrand der im Osten des indigenen Kuna-Yala-Territoriums. Berge, bedeckt von wildem Dschungeldickicht türmen sich vor mir auf. Zwischen Kokosnuspalmen und über eine kleine Brücke führt ein Weg in das angeblich”ultratraditionelle” Kunadorf. Leuchtende Kinderaugen starren mich an, als hätten Sie noch nie einen Ausländer gesehen. Ich fühle…

Pure Sailing – No Money, No Motor, No Problem!

Preparing for the next big trip to Kuna Yala also known as “San Blas Islands” and Cartagena, the little sailboat Renaissance (30feet) is moored in Linton Bay Marina, Panama. Here we met a wonderfull group of young enthusiastic sailors belonging to the Alternative World Sailing Community. On their freshly fixed boat “Orfin”, they enjoy sailing,…

Tradition vs. Fortschritt – Zwickmühle der indigenen Kunas

Kein Weg zurück – Sobald der Charterboot-Tourismus und einhergehender Fortschritt die Insel erreicht, verändert sich das Leben der indigenen Kunabevölkerung schlagartig. Vorbei ists mit idyllischer Stille, dem bloßen Geräusch vom Kinderlachen und sanft durchs Wasser gleitenden Einbaum Cayucos. Im Paradies der San Blas Inseln tönt der Lärm von Außenbordmotoren an modernen Glasfaserrümpfen und Müllhalden bilden…

Cayuco Sailing like the Kunas

  Silently glides the dugout cayuco through the calm waters between the islands. A little breeze of 6-12 knots is enough for the indigenous Kuna to travel between the islands. Nestor, a Kuna from the island Cabanas Ukuptupu picks us up and shows us how easy it can be to sail this shaky boat. Now…

Djungel Expedition into Indian Territory – Kuna Yala

On “Ailitupu” ,one of the most traditional of the San Blas Islands, we met Bredio. He is a Kuna Indian and lives here with his family. For a trip of two days he takes us up the a river of the mainland, deep into the Djungel of Kuna Yala. Together we hike to a little…

Hitchhiking at night?

Luigi and I hitchhiked to the small coastal town La Guira. Three friendly girls gave us a ride. From Linton Bay where the boat laid in the marina it took about 20 minutes. We visited the town, had dinner and joined a local fiesta. I met some cool people from Panama City and decided to stay…

Oh wie schön..dreckig ist Panama – Müllberge im Paradies

“Oh wie schön ist Panama”, sagt der kleine Tiger zum kleinen Bären in Janoschs Kinderbuch. Doch die Wirklichkeit sieht anders aus. “Panama” ist immernoch weit von meinen Traum entfernt. Die Luft ist heiß, schwül, voll von Abgasen; die Strassengraeben gepflastert mit Müll und alles ist relativ teuer! Der erste Eindruck bleibt negativ, doch wie in jedem Land,…

Last Miles to Panama

A new sailing adventure beginns on the beautifull island Providencia. Sleeping on the beach at night – hanging out in the hostel-restaurant – one day I meet Luigi philosophying over his coffee. The Italian captain wants to sail with me, his German first mate, in his small Danish Sagitta 30, under the American flag, from…

The Boatnazi and his Sinking Ship

We were moored up to the end of the dock in Port Antonio. Sitting on the pier, connecting with friends and family through the wifi, the whole crew of the 53 feet steel ketch “Fairwinds” was waiting. Officials from the medical department and the customs had to arrive and give us clearance for Jamaica. Nobody…