Über Leben im Gesetzesnebel – Drogentransport und Korruption

Eine zischende Welle spült mein Schlauchboot an den weißen Sandstrand der im Osten des indigenen Kuna-Yala-Territoriums. Berge, bedeckt von wildem Dschungeldickicht türmen sich vor mir auf. Zwischen Kokosnuspalmen und über eine kleine Brücke führt ein Weg in das angeblich”ultratraditionelle” Kunadorf. Leuchtende Kinderaugen starren mich an, als hätten Sie noch nie einen Ausländer gesehen. Ich fühle…

Pure Sailing – No Money, No Motor, No Problem!

Preparing for the next big trip to Kuna Yala also known as “San Blas Islands” and Cartagena, the little sailboat Renaissance (30feet) is moored in Linton Bay Marina, Panama. Here we met a wonderfull group of young enthusiastic sailors belonging to the Alternative World Sailing Community. On their freshly fixed boat “Orfin”, they enjoy sailing,…

Tradition vs. Fortschritt – Zwickmühle der indigenen Kunas

Kein Weg zurück – Sobald der Charterboot-Tourismus und einhergehender Fortschritt die Insel erreicht, verändert sich das Leben der indigenen Kunabevölkerung schlagartig. Vorbei ists mit idyllischer Stille, dem bloßen Geräusch vom Kinderlachen und sanft durchs Wasser gleitenden Einbaum Cayucos. Im Paradies der San Blas Inseln tönt der Lärm von Außenbordmotoren an modernen Glasfaserrümpfen und Müllhalden bilden…

Cayuco Sailing like the Kunas

  Silently glides the dugout cayuco through the calm waters between the islands. A little breeze of 6-12 knots is enough for the indigenous Kuna to travel between the islands. Nestor, a Kuna from the island Cabanas Ukuptupu picks us up and shows us how easy it can be to sail this shaky boat. Now…

Djungel Expedition into Indian Territory – Kuna Yala

On “Ailitupu” ,one of the most traditional of the San Blas Islands, we met Bredio. He is a Kuna Indian and lives here with his family. For a trip of two days he takes us up the a river of the mainland, deep into the Djungel of Kuna Yala. Together we hike to a little…

Hitchhiking at night?

Luigi and I hitchhiked to the small coastal town La Guira. Three friendly girls gave us a ride. From Linton Bay where the boat laid in the marina it took about 20 minutes. We visited the town, had dinner and joined a local fiesta. I met some cool people from Panama City and decided to stay…

Oh wie schön..dreckig ist Panama – Müllberge im Paradies

“Oh wie schön ist Panama”, sagt der kleine Tiger zum kleinen Bären in Janoschs Kinderbuch. Doch die Wirklichkeit sieht anders aus. “Panama” ist immernoch weit von meinen Traum entfernt. Die Luft ist heiß, schwül, voll von Abgasen; die Strassengraeben gepflastert mit Müll und alles ist relativ teuer! Der erste Eindruck bleibt negativ, doch wie in jedem Land,…

Last Miles to Panama

A new sailing adventure beginns on the beautifull island Providencia. Sleeping on the beach at night – hanging out in the hostel-restaurant – one day I meet Luigi philosophying over his coffee. The Italian captain wants to sail with me, his German first mate, in his small Danish Sagitta 30, under the American flag, from…

The Boatnazi and his Sinking Ship

We were moored up to the end of the dock in Port Antonio. Sitting on the pier, connecting with friends and family through the wifi, the whole crew of the 53 feet steel ketch “Fairwinds” was waiting. Officials from the medical department and the customs had to arrive and give us clearance for Jamaica. Nobody…

Carribean Island Providencia

This cute little island is a jewel of the Carribeans.  Blue, clear water and white beaches surround Providencia. Only 5000 people live here. Politically it belongs to Colombia even though it lays much closer to Nicaragua. A huge, quite ok protected anchoring bay is located in the north-west. It is easy to sail in but make sure to anchor without blocking the channel for…

Impressions of Jamaica

Jamaica is a beautiful green island. Its hills, rivers and lagoons are breath taking. Despite poverty, crime and many husslers in the streets, the relaxed Rastafari spirit of peace, hope and one love is still deeply rooted in the land. Far off the main roads the real soul of Jamaica shows. People here mean “Man…

Caribbean Dreams – Lonely Islands, Lobster, Lagerfeuer

In the harbour of Cienfuegos I met the Swedish Captn Fredrik and his crew of the sailing yacht “Fairwinds“. A young group of seven cool travellers who sail around  the Carribean Islands on the 57feet steel ketch. Their next trip leads to Jamaica and they will leave the next morning. Fredrik offers to queeze me…